Soy Sauce Braised Chicken with Shiitake and Bamboo Shoots

This satisfying homestyle dish has its origins in the soy sauce braised chicken that my aunt made the summer I stayed with her in Guangzhou, China. Hers was a simple but delicious, deeply flavoured dish that we loved to spoon over white rice. My version of soy sauce braised chicken includes a handful of shiitake mushrooms, which add an intensely aromatic quality to the whole dish. When I make this braise, I also like to add slices of bamboo shoots. Simmered in the slightly sweet and salty braising liquid with the mushrooms and chicken, the bamboo shoots soak up all the flavours while retaining a nice bite that offers textural contrast against the soft but chewy mushrooms and tender chicken.

We tend to eat more stews and braises like this one when the weather turns cold. Serve this with a bowl of white rice (perfect for soaking up the sauce) and a side of veggies, something light like a stir-fried leafy green.

A Note On Ingredients

I prefer to use wings for this soy sauce braised chicken. You can also use bone-in thighs or drumsticks, but I would stay away from boneless cuts like breast. If I get whole chicken wings and split them myself, I keep the wing tips and add them to the braise, as I love nibbling on them (I almost like them better than the meatier segments). If wing tips aren’t your thing, feel free to keep them for stock or do with them what you will.

I buy dried shiitake mushrooms from the Asian grocery store and soak them in hot water for about an hour or so to rehydrate them. The soaking liquid then becomes the braising liquid for the chicken. As for the bamboo shoots, I tend to get them frozen these days. There are two types of bamboo shoots that work for this dish: winter bamboo shoots and spring bamboo shoots from China. If you cannot find frozen bamboo shoots, then canned bamboo shoots from Mainland China can work. Specifically, MeriLin (or MaLing in some markets, they are the same brand) canned whole winter bamboo shoots can work. Do not try to use canned sliced bamboo shoots from Southeast Asia (usually Thailand); they are not the same and have a very strong, briny smell and taste. Bamboo shoots are also sold fermented or pickled–do not get those for this application.

Finally, I use a small amount of dried chili peppers as part of the aromatics for this braise. They really don’t add any heat (maybe a slight back-of-the-throat warmth) but contribute a bit of smoky complexity that’s nicely balanced out by the soy sauce and sugar in the sauce. If you don’t have dried chili peppers, then simply omit them. Don’t use cayenne flakes.

Recipe

Ingredients

• 6-8 (35g) dried shiitake mushrooms, rehydrated and sliced (reserve the soaking liquid)
• 200-250g bamboo shoots, sliced
• 750-900g (1 1/2-2lbs) chicken wings, split into flats and drums
• 2 scallions, white parts cut into 1-2 inch segments, greens thinly sliced for garnish
• 20g ginger, sliced
• 4-6 cloves (15g) garlic, crushed slightly and peeled
• 2-3 dried chili peppers, whole or cut into segments with the seeds removed
• 3 tbsp light soy sauce
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
• 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
• 1 tsp sugar
• 2-3 tbsp neutral oil, such as Canola
• 1/4-1/2 tsp toasted sesame oil
• 1 1/2 – 2 cups shiitake soaking liquid (be sure to avoid the sediment at the bottom)

For the Marinade

• 1 tbsp Kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• 2 tsp Shaoxing wine
• 2 tbsp light soy sauce

Directions

1. Combine the chicken wings and marinade ingredients (1 tbsp Kosher salt, 1/4 tsp black pepper, 2 tsp Shaoxing wine, 2 tbsp light soy sauce) in a large bowl and set aside for 1 hour. If you haven’t rehydrated the shiitake mushrooms already, you can do that at the same time. While the chicken marinates, prepare your aromatics and other ingredients.
2. Add the neutral oil (2-3 tbsp) to a pan and heat over medium heat. I like to use either a 3 qt braiser or a 3 qt sauté pan, as they offer both surface area and higher sides than a frying pan. When the oil is hot, add the scallion whites, ginger, garlic, and chili peppers to the pan and fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add the chicken wings in a single layer. Sprinkle the sugar (1 tsp) over the chicken wings and turn them occasionally until they pick up some colour (the sugar will help with this).
3. Deglaze the pan with the Shaoxing wine (1 tbsp). Then, add the light soy sauce (3 tbsp), dark soy sauce (1 tbsp), and soaking liquid from the shiitake mushrooms. If you don’t have enough liquid to cover the chicken wings, top it up with some water. Add the shiitake mushrooms and bamboo shoots to the pan, nestling them between the chicken wings. Bring to a slight boil, then lower the heat to maintain a simmer. Cook, covered, for 20-30 minutes until chicken is cooked through and bamboo shoots are tender (not soft, they should retain a bit of a crunch but should not have any raw taste). You’ll want to occasionally give everything a mix.
4. Uncover and bring the mixture back to a boil for a few minutes to reduce the sauce. Garnish with the scallion greens and a drizzle of toasted sesame oil. Serve.